Keep it simple

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As someone with a telecommunications background who's taken apart some cheap routers that look like that: the only caveat I'll add is that the antennas are only useful if they're actually connected to anything. From a decently trustworthy brand you're probably fine, but I've seen a few where only one or two of the antenna couplings were connected to anything internally.

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What do you define as a "decent" WAN connection?

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Let's see that ethernet cable do orthogonal frequency-division multiplexing...

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Ah butts, you’re right, the first guy said “mobile” and I didn’t read it correctly.

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I could preach all day about this.

I have a simple philosophy: wired when you can, wireless when you have to.

With that being said, doing a site survey for wifi and getting optimal access point locations, then placing Ethernet in ceiling there for said access points, ensures you have good coverage of your space, which then leads into another rant about network hardware and people spending thousands on everything except their router/access points even if they have the structure cables to support such a system....

Then people wonder why their wifi sucks.

I mean, spend a couple hundred one time to get Ethernet run, spend some time on an online ap placement tool and signal estimator for it, and then go buy infrastructure wireless for your home, and spend upwards of $1000 on networking hardware. You'll get more out of it and it will work for longer than your $1000+ smart phone, or many $1000s laptop that use it almost constantly.

Networking is critical and it should be seamless and blend into the background. You shouldn't need to mess with it constantly to get it to work. If that's normal for you, then something is very wrong.

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I know but IDK. Just figured it was an overhead thing. Having a connection that can max out a gigabit ethernet port is still fairly new territory for me.

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There's no shortage of liars and cheats everywhere. I'm unsurprised that a company world either intentionally, or through sheer ignorance, have "antennas" that are little more than aesthetic pieces of plastic.

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I think it’s a little more than $500 to get Ethernet ports installed all around your house. Especially if you need to run through fire breaks and insulation. Will have to wait till a remodel before I can get those installed.

That said, I didn’t skimp on my home networking, even though it’s all wireless. I’ve got 4 WiFi 6 APs on PoE with Cat 6 runs thru the attic. I can get 700 Mbs+ download speeds pretty much anywhere in and around the house.

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Legit would've commit crimes for 20mbps growing up. And I was one of the lucky ones too

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I got a used 10Gbe switch and a thunderbolt 10Gbe adapter for my computer and now I can transfer my videos and photos from my NAS like it's my internal hard drives.

It can also do 2.5Gbe which pretty much future proofs me.

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But what if you're gaming downstairs and the router is upstairs and then you have to go upstairs for pizza rolls so you take your gaming laptop upstairs and you're eating right next to the router and so you're just plugged in and then what if you forgot to turn off the oven and your girlfriend is yelling at you "You're going to start a fire! Why can't you remember to turn off the oven? What's wrong with you?" and then you go back downstairs to finish gaming?

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If that happens often enough to be worth 43 times more than the cat cable, then it sounds totally justified to me. But also, what if you got a toaster oven for upstairs?

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I spend a lot more money on good Ethernet switches. But at least that works and is easier to manage than Wifi.

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if that's the latest one that's a great deal. it's usually $800.

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It could be, depending on where you land on the DIY vs building code spectrum.... Also what your local building code details in terms of low voltage cable.

In my experience unless you're intentionally going through air handling ductwork, CMG is fine, though I would go with CMR at least, just as a matter of safety. I have yet to see a residential home with any fire protection or fire breaks, at all, nevermind where you would think to put them, like between floors and whatnot. The homes in my area are mostly built from timber, so we're basically living inside a framework of dried out wood, so putting a fire break between wood framed floors where the floor/ceiling shares a set of wooden cross members for support, seems like it would be unnecessary, since the framing of the building is going to conduct the fire between levels.

Ethernet is low voltage, so it's largely unregulated. The only real regulation is regarding plenum or riser spaces, and the latter is mostly when floors are intentionally or naturally separated in terms of shared fate when it comes to fire. I only see fire breaks in concrete structures, usually apartments or commercial buildings.

YMMV, not every country has the same building codes, so every person reading this will need to do their own research or pay someone who knows.

My point remains, regardless of all this conjecture: even if it's $2000 or more, this is structure cabling that should service the premise for as long as it continues to stand, which is hopefully many decades. Over 20 years, at $2000 for installation, you're looking at a cost of around $8.34/mo for the cabling to exist.

Considering people will pay 10x that for Internet service, and the addition of Ethernet in the building will allow them to take full advantage of the internet they're paying for, I'd call that a bargain.

CH3DD4R_G0B-L1N

What if you used the router as the toaster oven? Tapping_head.gif

GreatAlbatross

So far, I'm only £150 down on cable and clips on my rennovation. And this is the decent stuff, AWG23, and double run.

It'll probably go sideways when I spec up a switch with enough ports, mind...

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I use the microwave for my pizza rolls like a savage. Problem solved.

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USB-C > Ethernet dongle like a true Network Master.

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Or if you rent. I could run an Ethernet cable to my office from my router, but it would have to run upstairs and across a few doorways.