The two ways of fighting profiteering
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[email protected]replied to [email protected] last edited by
What's the melting point of the regular filament? You're supposed to touch the oven knobs it so it's probably not much higher than 50 degrees.
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[email protected]replied to [email protected] last edited by
*eyeliner
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[email protected]replied to [email protected] last edited by
What food-safe printing materials do you use?
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[email protected]replied to [email protected] last edited by
Software is free if you aren't using it for commercial use. Fusion 360, onshape, etc. are all free for personal use. And that's assuming someone didn't make it already and share it free.
Filament costs $17 for 1kg of perfectly fine plastic. You'd probably use 100g at most for this, so $1.70.
A Bambu A1 mini is $200, and is a modern, high quality printer that would be fine for this project.
So you only need like a half dozen of these projects to come out ahead.
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[email protected]replied to [email protected] last edited by
I just use PLA. PLA itself is good safe, but occasionally the additives aren't, so I don't use any for human related stuff. It's also worth considering that the layered approach can allow for bacterial growth, so unless you treat it (e.g. epoxy seal it), you'll need to wash it fairly frequently to curb buildup.
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[email protected]replied to [email protected] last edited by
50 degrees? How do your oven knobs even get that hot? Mine don't change temperature at all, always room temperature. If your oven knobs get recognizably warmer (yet to spend of 50°) something seems to be awfully wrong with your oven!
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[email protected]replied to [email protected] last edited by
On software SIDE, kinda criminal not to mention FreeCAD, it's FOSS and runs on Linux, unlike the non-free freemium and paid alternatives
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[email protected]replied to [email protected] last edited by
That frequent washing is what leaks out the nasty chemicals from the plastic fyi. Heat and mechanical stress are the main way plastics leach
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[email protected]replied to [email protected] last edited by
But it's got a long way to go before it's at usable as the others. Definitely not a good place to start learning cad.
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[email protected]replied to [email protected] last edited by
What does makeup have to do with this?
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[email protected]replied to [email protected] last edited by
Nah it's a great place to start learning, it's super easy to start modelling your first simple models in part design.
It's the more complex designs where it starts to struggle (or maybe I'm just dumb)
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[email protected]replied to [email protected] last edited by
To be clear, I'm the last one to say one shouldn't invest in money saving innovation. But the breaking even should be number one priority. I, for instance have all kinds of energy savers in my house that have cost me several hundreds. They'll only be returned in a few years and I need to manage them properly.
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dual_sport_dork 🐧🗡️replied to [email protected] last edited by
I just grab the serial number from a recently sold one and file a warranty claim on it.
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[email protected]replied to [email protected] last edited by
Glass transition temp of PLA is around 55-60C - that’s when it starts to get malleable. I’d be pretty surprised if the oven knobs get that hot.
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[email protected]replied to [email protected] last edited by
Tbh I'd say more like 30 cents for that, but yeah.
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dual_sport_dork 🐧🗡️replied to [email protected] last edited by
No, it doesn't.
The recent 1.0 release is actually very good. It is probably better at this point than some of the entry level commercial options and most importantly compared to those is not intentionally hobbled in any way.
The time for everyone to stop parroting how "everyone knows" that FreeCAD is unusable is... now. You can go ahead and delete that one; it's time to learn a new soundbyte.
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\DM: Roll a D20 for a stealth check.
\Rouge: I bat my eyelashes.
\DM: Huh, misread your character sheet. I'll allow it. -
[email protected]replied to [email protected] last edited by
I wish I had pockets big enough to replace the flimsy Bosch drawers in my fridge that start to shatter as soon as you pull just a tiny bit harder than normal.
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Rogue is not spelled rouge.
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dual_sport_dork 🐧🗡️replied to [email protected] last edited by
Not really. You can print it out of ABS easily enough if that's a concern, given that there is a good chance that is what the knob on any given residential range or oven is likely to have been made out of by the factory anyway.
As a matter of fact, since this is directly in my wheelhouse (not that wheelhouse, the other one) vis-a-vis both 3D printing and whitegoods, let's take a look.
Being in the unique position to be able to do so, I grabbed a knob off of a random smattering of ranges. Here's what I found from the ones that didn't require taking them apart further to find the markings or scraping at them with a knife or something (hey, there's the other wheelhouse):
- Maytag (Whirlpool): Stamped "ABS" on the inside.
- Bosch "Industrial Style" (similar to OP's): PBT
- Whirlpool: PET
- Verona: ABS
- GE Base Line: ABS
PBT has a pretty similar melting point to ABS at ~235° C. With ABS it's complicated, but I print ABS at 260° C for what it's worth. PET is also typically given around 260-270. So these are all pretty similar to each other.
TL;DR: You should be fine with ABS.