Keep it simple

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It could be, depending on where you land on the DIY vs building code spectrum.... Also what your local building code details in terms of low voltage cable.

In my experience unless you're intentionally going through air handling ductwork, CMG is fine, though I would go with CMR at least, just as a matter of safety. I have yet to see a residential home with any fire protection or fire breaks, at all, nevermind where you would think to put them, like between floors and whatnot. The homes in my area are mostly built from timber, so we're basically living inside a framework of dried out wood, so putting a fire break between wood framed floors where the floor/ceiling shares a set of wooden cross members for support, seems like it would be unnecessary, since the framing of the building is going to conduct the fire between levels.

Ethernet is low voltage, so it's largely unregulated. The only real regulation is regarding plenum or riser spaces, and the latter is mostly when floors are intentionally or naturally separated in terms of shared fate when it comes to fire. I only see fire breaks in concrete structures, usually apartments or commercial buildings.

YMMV, not every country has the same building codes, so every person reading this will need to do their own research or pay someone who knows.

My point remains, regardless of all this conjecture: even if it's $2000 or more, this is structure cabling that should service the premise for as long as it continues to stand, which is hopefully many decades. Over 20 years, at $2000 for installation, you're looking at a cost of around $8.34/mo for the cabling to exist.

Considering people will pay 10x that for Internet service, and the addition of Ethernet in the building will allow them to take full advantage of the internet they're paying for, I'd call that a bargain.

CH3DD4R_G0B-L1N

What if you used the router as the toaster oven? Tapping_head.gif

GreatAlbatross

So far, I'm only £150 down on cable and clips on my rennovation. And this is the decent stuff, AWG23, and double run.

It'll probably go sideways when I spec up a switch with enough ports, mind...

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I use the microwave for my pizza rolls like a savage. Problem solved.

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USB-C > Ethernet dongle like a true Network Master.

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Or if you rent. I could run an Ethernet cable to my office from my router, but it would have to run upstairs and across a few doorways.

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Yeah this kinda overlooks a lot of the issues with like… getting a cable somewhere

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My house is relatively new (built 2005), and they pulled cat5 for all the telephone lines and just didn't hook up the extra pairs of wires. Since nobody uses landlines anymore, I rewired most of the outlets for RJ45.

Have pulled a few more wires, including fiber to my main office PC (so I can have a very fast connection to my NAS). Once you learn a few techniques and the way your building is laid out, it's not that hard.

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You will generally run into fire stops in the framing, like you can see here:

Fire Stops, Fire Blocking in Studs

All modern American building codes requires fire stopping devices be incorporated in certain walls, floors, and attics. These fire stops prevent fire from moving too easily up a wall to the room above or into another area of the house. In modern residential home design, this is most commonly achieved in walls by continuous 2x4 or 2x6 top and bottom plates that separate studs from the joists above. In fact, it is so common, we rarely even think about the fire-stopping benefit of the design anymore. It seems like these top and bottom plates are there just to hold the

One Project Closer (www.oneprojectcloser.com)

When I ran wires to my office, I had to cut out one section of drywall above it, another below it, and then use a right angle attachment for my drill to go through it. Pull wire through and seal it with fire block foam.

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$6.99/5' of cable. A weekend of manual labor running cable through my walls.

Or $300 for something I can set-and-forget.

Decisions, decisions.

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Would be cool if building code standards included Cat5 (or even better, USB) along with the standard power and phone connections of new builds.

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Sure, but this isn't that. That requires actual work put in developing and simulating the product, these are just multiple antennae for multiple channels.

Source: ~~trust me bro~~ I work in semiconductors at a firm that creates RF chips

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Seems pointless considering the fire stop is made from something flammable.

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Its purpose is to slow it down, not stop it. There would be a chimney effect where smoke rises out of the channel and fresh oxygen is allowed to come in from below. The blocks here prevent that from happening.

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Oh, I'm not saying it's not functional in stone capacity. I understand the physics and what is trying to be accomplished with it, but unless it's done with pretty tight tolerance so any air leakage between the upper and lower spaces is as close to nil as possible, then it's not going to be super effective.

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Dude, this is standard framing that's been done for ages and is in tons of houses in the US. It works, and it's mandated by code for a reason.

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That one in the picture is $599 isn't it?

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I set up a mesh router pair a while back - super easy setup, and the speed is good enough to have multiple TVs streaming at once, and without needing to run cables between rooms... Worth it.

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You mean to say there are tiny little humans working inside all the chips in my devices??

AngryMob

The problem with wireless isn't speed anymore, its stability. For a lot of applications that's fine since buffering and whatnot hides any hiccups. but gaming for example is a nightmare on wireless still.